Sunscreens, UVB and UVA Rays

With summer lurking just around the corner, it’s almost time to tie up that new bathing suit, fire up the grill, and most importantly, slather on the sunscreen. The importance of sun care escalates as knowledge of skin cancer increases in the United States, and the National Cancer Institute estimates that there are more than one million new cases of skin cancer in 2009 alone. Still, loyal sunbathers and frequent beach-goers are able to enjoy some fun in the sun thanks to the vast array of sunscreen available. Sunscreens are available in several forms, including lotion, sprays, ointments, and sticks, and are often labeled with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF), which can range from 2 to 50. The higher the SPF, the more sun protection, and most dermatologists recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher.

Sunscreen protects the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays from the sun, and too much exposure to these rays can cause sunburn and wrinkles. Long term sun exposure can lead to cancer, which is the most common type of cancer, according to the American Cancer Association. Most sunscreens contain zinc oxide, which as the ability to filter UVA and UVB rays to protect the skin. Zinc oxide has been used in skin products for many years and can be used with all skin types.

UVradiation, a known carcinogen, can have a number of harmful effects on the skin. The two types of UV radiation that can affect the skin—UVA and UVB—have both been linked to skin cancer and a weakening of the immune system. They also contribute to premature aging of the skin and cataracts (a condition that impairs eyesight), and cause skin color changes.

UVA Rays

UVA rays, which are not absorbed by the ozone layer, penetrate deep into the skin and heavilycontribute to premature aging. Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by sun exposure.

UVB Rays

These powerful rays, which are partially absorbed by the ozone layer, mostly affect the surface of the skin and are the primary cause of sunburn. Because of the thinning of the ozone layer, the effects of UVB radiation will pose an increased threat until the layer is restored in the latter half of the 21st century.

The following table from the FDA lists these ingredients and includes information regarding the type and amount of ray protection that they provide and their class.

Is a Suntan Healthy?

Just remember, there is no such thing as a healthy suntan. Any change in your natural skin color is a sign of skin damage. Every time your skin color changes after sun exposure, your risk of developing sun-related ailments increases.

Treatments for Aging Hands

Because of sun and weather exposure, years of minor scrapes and cuts, and for some, constant exposure to water and detergents, our hands sometimes age faster than other parts of our bodies, and detract from our appearance. Fortunately is it now possible to rejuvenate the hands, restoring their appearance and sometimes also improving the thickness and health of the skin on the backs of the hands.

Fun loving, hard working hands don’t get the sun protection they need. The backs of the hands are sometimes overlooked when sunscreen is applied - or the sunscreen is washed off or accidentally wiped away. Gardening gloves, golf gloves, bike gloves work gloves can help to protect our hands from sun and from trauma.

Daily moisturizing your hands is critical to keep your skin supple and prevent dryness and cracking. Wearing gloves and moisturizing in the cold weather helps protect your hands from chapping and cracking.

For some people, dry cracked hands are a chronic condition called contact dermatitis, or hand eczema. Often caused by your daily routine, one which involves constantly having wet hands (i.e. hairdresser, surgeon, homemaker), this condition results in red, scaly, and very itchy hands. If you suspect your have this, read more at http://www.eczemaguide.ca/basics/eczema_like/hand_eczema_hand_dermatitis.html

There are some solutions to rejuvenating the look and feel of your hands:

• There are numerous special hand creams available, more being introduced almost every week! Creams with vitamins A, C, E and alpha hydroxyl acids are key ingredients which can help prevent and restore your youthful looking hands.
• Restisol-A® 0.01% cream contains tretinoin (which prevents and corrects some aspects of sun damage) and also has an SPF 15 sunscreen. When Retisol-A cream is applied to exposed areas like the face and the backs of the hands EVERY morning - year after year - the aging process is slowed down, and sometimes after a year or two the skin will actually start to look and feel younger and healthier.
• Sunscreens which have the ability to stick to the skin (for example, Anthelios-45® Waterproof Sunscreen) can be very helpful on active parts of the body like the hands, and can also act as a moisturizer. The sunscreen should be applied before sun exposure, even if you are using Retisol-A as a base coat for your skin every morning.

When the skin on the back of the hands has become old looking and freckled - and sometimes also thinned out - it is possible to correct these problems and give your hands a fresh, more youthful look:

• Brown spots (sometimes called freckles, “age spots” or “liver spots”) can be faded using fading creams and also by using the Medlite C6 laser. Treatments take only a few minutes, are well tolerated, and great improvement is usually obvious within a couple of weeks.
• Thin skin on the backs of the hands can be quickly improved by treatment with Restylane™. This not only improves the appearance of the hands by making veins and bones less obvious, but also restores the fullness found in youthful skin and gives some protection against bumps and bruises. The benefits of a single treatment can be seen immediately and often last 6-12 months, sometimes longer.
• In some cases Artecoll™ can also be used to improve the thickness of the skin on the backs of the hands. Artecoll™ costs more to use, and several treatment sessions 2-4 months apart may be required, but Artecoll™ has the advantage of producing an improvement which can last for many years.

Like most things, prevention is your best solution. Keep your hands beautiful by remembering to moisturize, use a sunblock and protect your hands from exposure - the same way you look after your face. For more information on cleansers, moisturizers, sunscreens, and general skincare, go to SkinCareGuide.ca.

About the author:
Dr. Kevin Smith is a dermatologist in Niagara Falls, Ontario with a particular interest in protecting the skin and in correcting skin problems resulting from aging, rosacea and sun damage. He is an expert in the use of Botox®, fillers, lasers and intense pulsed light to maintain and enhance the appearance of the skin, and have lectured on those subjects across North America, and in Europe, Asia and Mexico. Read more at www.smithlaser.com

Non-Comedogenic Cosmetics

Non-comedogenic cosmetics are products which have been tested on the oily skins of human volunteers or inside
rabbit ears. These products are less likely to cause blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones) in patients. However, no single product is non-comedogenic for everyone.

For example, a person with very oily skin may still get skin breakouts from products that another person with mildly oily skin may find non-comedogenic. A better term may be non-acnegenic rather than non-comedogenic, but this is not so widely used. It is important to test a new product on your own skin rather than rely on the label, before using it freely.

Moisturizers:
There are moisturizers labeled oil-free which have a very thin consistency. These have been tested in old animal models and have been proven to be oil-free. Most people who are acne-prone or who have oily skin do not even need these products. There are moisturizers labeled non-comedogenic which are usually thicker than the oil-free products, these may
be suitable when the ambient humidity is dry. When the patient is exercising or if the air is hot and humid, these moisturizers may be comedogenic.

Cleansers:

There are some products, which are suitable for oily skin, most liquid cleansers are not as helpful for oily skin as bar soaps or synthetic detergents. Some deodorant soaps or cleansers may be helpful for oily skin. Care must be taken not to over dry the skin with a strong cleanser for fear that the skin will re-bound with extra oil. Often a good gentle face bar soap, or gentle cleansers such as will be more likely to allow for patient satisfaction.

When the patient actually has acne and not just oily skin, many acne cleansers are available and many companies have cleansers made specifically for acne. There are benzoyl peroxide cleansers in the form of 5 and 10 % bar soaps and liquid cleansers, which are very effective in controlling acne breakouts.

Foundations:
Foundations for acne prone skin are often formulated to be like a shake lotion the color contents settle on the bottom while the opaque or clear solution is on the top. The bottle is shaken before the foundation is applied, these are the least elegant oil free cosmetics. Most foundations remain mixed together but are not heavy or thick. It is not necessary to have poor coverage in foundations for oily or acne prone skin. Titanium dioxide is the ingredient which allows for better coverage, and that ingredient is not oily, varying amounts of starch and kaolin will thicken up the products without causing acne.

For those who actually have acne prone skin, the addition of 1-2% salicylic acid may be partially therapeutic. For patients who need a blotter for the excess oil in their skin, extra amounts of starch, kaolin, and polymers which absorb sebum may be added.

Sunscreens:
The active ingredients of sunscreens UVB blockers such as Cinnamates, Octocrylene, Salicylates, and UVA blockers such as Benzophenones, Parsol 1789 (avobenzone), micronized zinc or titanium dioxide, are not themselves comedogenic. These ingredients can be incorporated into foundations, non-comedogenic moisturizers, and oil-free bases. The least comedogenic sunscreens are usually formulated into gel formulations.

Benzoyl Peroxide and Tretinoin

When applying antiacne drugs to the skin, people should be careful not to get the medicine in the eyes, mouth, or inside the nose. They should not put the medicine on skin that is wind burned, sunburned, or irritated, and not apply it to open wounds.

Because antiacne drugs such as benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin irritate the skin slightly, users should avoid doing anything that might cause further irritation. They should wash the face with mild soap and water only two or three times a day, unless the physician says to wash it more often. They should also avoid using abrasive soaps or cleansers and products that might dry the skin or make it peel, such as medicated cosmetics, cleansers that contain alcohol, or other acne products that contain resorcinol, sulfur, or salicylic acid.

If benzoyl peroxide or tretinoin make the skin too red or too dry or cause too much peeling, the user should check with a physician. Using the medicine less often or using a weaker strength may be necessary. Benzoyl peroxide can irritate the skin of people with skin of color and cause darkened spots called hyperpigmentation on the skin. Benzoyl peroxide may discolor hair or colored fabrics.

ORAL DRUGS. Oral antibiotics are taken daily for two to four months. The drugs used include tetracycline, erythromycin, minocycline (Minocin), doxycycline, clindamycin (Cleocin), and trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole (Bactrim, Septra). Possible side effects include allergic reactions, stomach upset, vaginal yeast infections, dizziness, and tooth discoloration.

The goal of treating moderate acne is to decrease inflammation and prevent new comedones from forming. One effective treatment is topical tretinoin, used along with a topical or oral antibiotic. A combination of topical benzoyl peroxide and erythromycin is also very effective. Improvement is normally seen within four to six weeks, but treatment is maintained for at least two to four months.

Special Conditions

People who have certain medical conditions or who are taking certain other medicines may have problems if they use antiacne drugs. Before using these products, the physician should be informed about any of the following conditions.

ALLERGIES. Anyone who has had unusual reactions to etretinate, isotretinoin, tretinoin, vitamin A preparations, or benzoyl peroxide in the past should let the physician know before using an antiacne drug. The physician should also be told about any allergies to foods, dyes, preservatives, or other substances.

PREGNANCY. Teens who are pregnant or who may become pregnant should check with a physician before using tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide. Isotretinoin causes birth defects in humans and must not be used during pregnancy.

OTHER MEDICAL CONDITIONS. Before using antiacne drugs applied to the skin, people with any of these medical problems should make sure their physicians are aware of their conditions:
• Eczema. Antiacne drugs that are applied to the skin may make this condition worse.
• Sunburn or raw skin. Antiacne drugs that are applied to the skin may increase the pain and irritation of these conditions.

In people with certain medical conditions, isotretinoin may increase the amount of triglyceride (a fatty-substance) in the blood. This may lead to heart or blood vessel problems. Before using isotretinoin, adolescents with any of the following medical problems should make sure their physicians are aware of their conditions:

• alcoholism or heavy drinking, currently or in the past
• diabetes or family history of diabetes (Isotretinoin may change blood sugar levels.)
• family history of high triglyceride levels in the blood
• severe weight problems

Using antiacne drugs with certain other drugs may affect the way the drugs work or may increase the chance of side effects.

Quality Skincare Products

Many consumers are frustrated by skin care products that don’t do what they claim to. Worse still is investing in an expensive yet ineffective cream or treatment only to discover the cheapest drug-store brand would work just as well. In a world of hyper-consumerism, false advertising and a plethora of products from which to choose, how do you choose the good from the bad?

There are some great products on the market that can genuinely improve your skin’s appearance and help your skin look smoother, more radiant, and youthful. But, there are literally thousands of products to choose from and unless you spend hours a day researching beauty products, it’s difficult to find the one of the few that actually produces real results and eliminates years of aging from your face and body. Read more

Aromatherapy and essential oils

“Aromatherapy” basically is a holistic treatment using natural scents. It is primarily used to care for the body with pleasant smelling botanical oils such as rose, lemon, lavender and peppermint. The essential oils are added to the bath or massaged into the skin, inhaled directly or diffused to scent an entire room. Aromatherapy is used for the relief of pain, care for the skin, alleviate tension and fatigue and invigorate the entire body. Essential oils can affect the mood, alleviate fatigue, reduce anxiety and promote relaxation. When inhaled, they work on the brain and nervous system through stimulation of the olfactory nerves.

The essential oils are aromatic essences extracted from plants, flowers, trees, fruits, bark, grasses and seeds with distinctive therapeutic, psychological, and physiological properties, which improve and prevent illness. There are about 150 essential oils. Most of these oils have antiseptic properties; some are antiviral, anti-inflammatory, pain-relieving, antidepressant and expectorant. Other properties of the essential oils which are taken advantage of in aromatherapy are their stimulation, relaxation, digestion improvement, and diuretic properties. To get the maximum benefit from essential oils, it should be made from natural, pure raw materials. Synthetically made oils do not work.

Aromatherapy is one of the fastest growing fields in alternative medicine. It is widely used at home, clinics and hospitals for a variety of applications such as pain relief for women in labor pain, relieving pain caused by the side effects of the chemotherapy undergone by the cancer patients, and rehabilitation of cardiac patients. There is a growing body of scientific evidence for the many skin benefits of essential oils. Dr. Pratima Raichur, author of Absolute Beauty , (Harper Collins, 1996), points out that nearly all essential oils are anti-microbial and recommends them as part of her Ayurvedic approach to each skin condition, which, according to Ayurvedic principles, is determined by one’s specific body type, or “dosha.” For most oily or “Kapha” skin, she recommends lavender and clary sage to normalize oil production. For sensitive, “Pitta” skin, and acne rosacea,   sandalwood, rose and jasmine to calm the skin. For dry, “Vata” skin, neroli, sweet orange and geranium to balance and hydrate.

Essential oils stimulate the powerful sense of smell. Many know the odors we smell have a significant impact on how we feel. In dealing with patients who have lost the sense of smell, doctors have found that a life without fragrance can lead to high incidence of psychiatric problems such as anxiety and depression. We have the capability to distinguish 10,000 different smells. It is believed that smells enter through cilia (the fine hairs lining the nose) to the limbic system, the part of the brain that controls our moods, emotions, memory and learning.

Studies with brain wave frequency has shown that smelling lavender increases alpha waves in the back of the head, which are associated with relaxation. Fragrance of Jasmine increases beta waves in the front of the head, which are associated with a more alert state.
Scientific studies have also shown that essential oils contain chemical components that can exert specific effects on the mind and body. Their chemistry is complex, but generally includes alcohols, esters, ketones, aldehydes, and terpenes.

In addition to their balancing effects, using essential oils and products made from them instead of conventionally scented skin and bath products, will spare your skin the stress of the number one ranking skin irritant: synthetic fragrance. Essential oil blends for a variety of skin types that also include super-antioxidants and marine extracts in their formulas and several others all offer balancing oils that actually can detoxify, regenerate and balance oil production in the skin.

Herbal Skin Detoxifier Treatment

Gather the following ingredients:Juniper berries (Juniperus communus)
Used for: Detoxifying.

Chamomile Flowers (Matricaria recutita)
Used for: Soothing and calming.

Calendula Flowers (Calendula officinalis)
Used for: Softening the skin. Read more

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